Whole-wheat penne pasta redeemed by chard, cheese

Matthew Mead/Associated Press

Just a little chicken sausage goes a long way in this recipe for whole-wheat penne with spring greens.

By SARA MOULTON
Associated Press

No matter how unimpeachable whole-wheat pasta is in terms of nutritional cred, I’ve always found it off-putting.

Sure, it has more fiber and whole-grain nutrition. But it always struck me as rather spineless and dull. And as someone whose culinary credo is that food can be scrumptious and healthy, I wasn’t about to eat whole-wheat pasta for its nutritional benefits alone.

Happily, several brands recently have developed very respectable lines of 100 percent whole-wheat pasta. If you haven’t lately, you might want to taste a few of them to decide which is your favorite.

Once you’ve settled on a winner, cook it the way I suggest in this recipe, which is to finish cooking the pasta in the sauce. This produces a more flavorful dish than the more traditional method – cooking the sauce and pasta separately, then combining them only at the last minute. Plenty tasty, but the flavors never marry.

I learned a better way years ago when New York chef and restaurateur Scott Conant (his mother is of Italian descent) was my guest on “Cooking Live.” Transfer the pasta before it’s fully cooked to the sauce, then let it simmer in the sauce until it’s done. This way the pasta absorbs the flavor of the sauce and becomes that much tastier.

If you also add a little of the pasta cooking liquid to the sauce, it will work to glue together the pasta and sauce in a most satisfyingly connubial fashion.

And let’s not forget our Swiss chard. A spring vegetable, this tangy Mediterranean member of the beet family comes in several colors, from bottle green to rainbow.

And it’s edible from tip to toe, too, stems included. Just slice the stems and put them in the pan before the greens, because they take a little longer to soften.

By the way, if you’re wondering how the heck you’re going to persuade a full pound of greens to cook down within the confines of a single skillet, don’t worry; the water that clings to the greens after you wash them will help them to wilt. Just add them a handful at a time. Besides chard, this dish also would provide a happy home for spinach, beet greens, or any other greens.

To finish, I pepped up the greens with a little chicken sausage, but just a little and just for flavor. Plenty of cultures use animal protein this way, rather than relying on a substantial slab of it to occupy the center of the plate. There’s a lesson there for us: It’s better for our health and for the environment.

This is pretty much a one-dish meal. Serve it with a nice little tossed salad on the side and a glass of vino, and savor your contentment.

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