Organic food and agriculture has been a hot topic for many years in and around Durango, so some may find it surprising that only five out of the 1,124 producers in La Plata County and three out of the 1,138 farms in Montezuma County are actually certified organic, according to data from the recently-released 2012 Census of Agriculture.

According to the census, completed every five years, Colorado supplies $2.5 billion of U.S. certified organic sales, a number which accounts for small producers as well as national organic brands, such as Silk Soymilk and Earth Balance. However, in total, Colorado has only 176 certified organic farms, 158 organic processors and 14 organic livestock owners. One would think the number of farms would be a lot higher, but there is a catch: the word “certified.”

The word organic is regulated by the federal government using rules established by the National Organic Program in 2000. People describing their food as organic have to follow specific organic standards described by the USDA, which generally state products must be produced using methods that preserve the environment and avoid most synthetic materials, such as pesticides.

However, the certification process has been deemed too lengthy and cost-prohibitive for many farmers in the past. To be certified, producers must complete a long questionnaire, called an Organic Systems Plan, about their practices and have a local inspector come every year.

Two farms, two philosophies

Jennifer Wheeling runs the gardens at James Ranch along with her husband, Joe. The 400-acre ranch raises beef cattle, milk cows, chickens and has a tree nursery 10 miles north of Durango, but none of their products are certified organic.

“This doesn’t mean that we don’t follow the rules,” she said. “We just don’t want to go through the government drama.”

James Ranch’s website says they go “beyond organic,” following organic rules but also by implementing additional practices such as making decisions holistically, building wildlife habitat and monitoring air quality.

Wheeling recognizes that the certification process works for some, especially those who sell at a grocery store. However, she says they don’t have time to do the certification but would much rather do a better job growing food for their community.

Matt Brewer, farm operations manager for Chimney Rock Farms in Bayfield, says Chimney Rock is one of the only certified organic farms in the area, as far as he knows. At 50 acres, the farm is a little larger than most, but the key is the farm sells some of its products wholesale, in large quantities, to regional buyers and grocers. Organic-certified products sold wholesale receive a higher price than conventional products.

“Honestly, if we weren’t doing wholesale and focused on our direct sale at farmers markets and CSA, we might not be certified,” Brewer said. “It’s just that in that large enough markets the certification makes sense – it’s 35 cents per pound of tomatoes versus $1.30 per pound with the certification. That difference can make or break our operation.”

Amy Stafford, organic program manager at the Colorado Department of Agriculture, said higher wholesale prices for organic goods is why most people choose to go through the certification process.

“Many growers consider and start to be organic certified based on financial reasons,” she said. “However, after a few years they will start to see real environmental changes: for example, their soil will start to hold more water, and more native animals will flock to their area.”

Cody Reinheimer, manager of Durango Farmers Market, thinks growing food with organic methods is really important, both as an eater and as the market manager. At the Durango Farmers Market, vendors are required to display an information card telling shoppers about all of their practices.

“Every farm booth has this information card so consumers can see how they’re operating,” he said. “But what is most unique at the farmers market is that consumers can actually talk to farmers themselves.”

Reinheimer said that becoming certified is a huge time investment, and if the certification process could be streamlined for smaller farmers, it would be really helpful, and consumers could be rest assured of a farm’s practices.

Help from the government

The USDA wants to try and help small farmers get there. This year’s Farm Bill included $11.5 million annually for the organic certification cost-share program, which can cover up to 75 percent of the cost of certification for applicants, up to $750. This is more than double the funding allocated in previous farm bills.

The total sales of organic food and beverages were 4 percent of total food sales in 2012, according to the Nutrition Business Journal, and organic demand continues to outstrip supply. However, the number of certified farmers in the U.S. has leveled off, and funding for the cost-share program was increased to help attract smaller-scale producers.

According to Stafford, who has worked in organic agriculture since before a national standard was adopted, the hope is to expand the program through funding as well as though increased education. She said there is a lot of misinformation about the certification process, and many do not realize cost-share assistance, issued as a reimbursement, exists.

Stafford said the CDA is trying to do more education and outreach about the organic process, and it is now able to answer questions about the certification and offer advice and options about different organic practices.

“Our door is open, and we are here to help regarding rules, what we expect and the process,” Stafford said. “That hasn’t always been the case.”

Additionally, some changes to the certification process may make things a little easier for growers: The Organic System Plan used to have to be completed every year, but starting this year, just an update is required, lessening the burden of paperwork.

The 2014 Agricultural Act also includes $20 million annually for organic research and agricultural extension projects, as well as $5 million for data collection and expanded options for organic crop insurance.

Katie Fiegenbaum is a student at American University in Washington, D.C., and an intern for The Durango Herald. Reach her at kfiegenbaum@durangoherald.com.