Esther Greenfield

Position: Special to the Herald

Southwest Colorado’s arborglyphs: Here yesterday, gone today

As ephemeral as a sand painting in the wind, a piece of Durango’s cultural heritage is slipping away. Culturally historic carvings cut into soft-barked aspen trees by sheepherders, cowboys or...

DATE: Dec. 1, 2019 | CATEGORY: Southwest Life

Tales of fish, dogs and shipwrecks from the Turks and Caicos islands

We have just arrived in Cockburn Town on the island of Grand Turk, the capital of Turks & Caicos, an archipelago of 40 low-lying islands in the Atlantic Ocean near the Bahamas. Our plane, the size...

DATE: June 7, 2019 | CATEGORY: Travel

Durango couple soaks up richness of life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast

Richard Koch and I, both Durango residents, spent two months in the fall of 2016 living in a small village in the middle of Italy’s Amalfi Coast between Positano and Amalfi. Praiano is beautiful, a...

DATE: Aug. 16, 2017 | CATEGORY: Travel

Italy’s history, people surprise and delight Durango travelers

From the chaos of Milan’s Centrale Stazione, the train ride west to the village of Orta San Giulio nestled along Italy’s Lago d’Orta is only a serene hour away. The walk to the hotel pulling...

DATE: May 28, 2016 | CATEGORY: Travel

In Italy, charmed by history – and pasta

An old Italian proverb says “a day without pasta is like a day without sunshine.” My husband and favorite travelling companion, Richard, and I were ready for some pasta and for our fourth trip to...

DATE: Feb. 6, 2016 | CATEGORY: Travel

The promised land

On a hot summer day in 1955 two boys lean impatiently against the red Texaco gas pumps in front of their uncle’s store in Tiffany. They’re waiting for their Uncle Morris to drive them in his red,...

DATE: March 22, 2014 | CATEGORY: Southwest Life

A powerful look at power

He hangs nonchalantly from a steel cable, gazing at the camera while sitting on a wooden trolley, his spectacles reflecting the icy Animas River below. It is an unselfconscious portrait, probably...

DATE: Nov. 24, 2012 | CATEGORY: Southwest Life

Tourists learn orderliness in Tuscany visit

CORTONA, TUSCANY, ITALY – Climbing up a cobbled lane behind the Convent Santa Margherita where we are staying, we find the Fortezza di Cortona, built 1,000 years ago on the highest hill above the...

DATE: April 14, 2012 | CATEGORY: Travel

Moonlick Meadows and the sheep men of Blanco Canyon

BLANCO CANYON, N.M. – The raven looked down and saw her shadow sliding over the limestone canyon below. She watched a wavering line of sheep moving under the cottonwoods scattered here and there in...

DATE: Aug. 27, 2011 | CATEGORY: Southwest Life

Real Ireland found on island of Inishmore

KILROANAN, Ireland – “Anchors Aweigh!” chortles the 80-year-old widow next to me when the ferry to Inishmore sails off, followed by “Oh, that was a good one!” when a furious wave hits the boat. The...

DATE: April 2, 2011 | CATEGORY: Travel

Basque country offers variety of experiences

On a recent trip to the Basque region of northern Spain, Durango travelers enjoyed two very different village experiences.MorellaTurning our backs on the southern seacoast of Spain, we head inland...

DATE: Sept. 19, 2009 | CATEGORY: Travel

Cave art is found deep in France's Dordogne Valley

LES EYZIES DE TAC, France - The 12 of us who are gathered together in front of the entrance to the Font de Gaume cave to meet our English-speaking guide whisper together anxiously. It will be a...

DATE: Feb. 1, 2009 | CATEGORY: Travel

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